If the eyes are the windows to the soul, then the brows are the framework. A significant part of everyone’s face, brows tend to be over-looked or over-plucked and in both cases end up being distracting instead of flattering. Whether you have a uni-brow or half-a-brow, there is a way for everyone to obtain beautiful brows with a little patience and some precision shaping.

Eye brow precision shaping is the method of individually removing hairs through tweezing and trimming, not waxing. A gentler form of hair removal, precision shaping is the only way to effectively create balance and symmetry between the brows. If you can find a place that specializes in this type of service I highly recommend it. Otherwise, follow these tips to get yourself started on the right brow path!

First you’ll want to make sure you have the proper tools. Invest in a good pair of tweezers with a slanted edge and good grip-my favorite, hands down, are from Tweezerman. Next, get scissors designed for brow trimming (do not use the nail trimmers as they’re curved and won’t work!). Lastly, you’ll need a brow groomer or spiral brush for combing the hairs in place. (Tweezerman makes a great set that comes with scissors and a groomer). Also, make sure you have a good mirror (magnifying helps, although it is imperative to flip it over throughout the tweezing process in order to see both brows for the proper perspective) and lots of light-preferably natural-in order to clearly see the hairs.

*NOTE
If you are an obsessive plucker, put down the tweezers-yes, the ones in your bathroom, your glove compartment and your make-up bag- and LET THEM GROW. This is by far the most painful part for a lot of my clients who just can’t keep their hands off. It’s important to get as much growth as possible in order to accurately assess your natural shape. Plus, it’s always better to have more than less hair with which to work. If your brows don’t grow fast enough, consider Women’s Rogaine or men’s extra-strength Rogaine applied to the sparse areas with a Q-Tip. For those of you with brows from here to next week, the rest of us are jealous.☺ Your brows will look best if they remain thick so approach this process as more of a “clean-up” and less of a “reshape”.

YOUR BROW SHAPE
To determine where the brows should begin, hook the end of the brush around the edge of your nostril and hold it parallel to the side of your nose. Where the brush meets your brow is where your brow should start. Anything short of that should be left alone to grow or be filled in with a pencil. Anything beyond that can be tweezed. Next, angle the brush slightly so that it is on a diagonal from the nose to the outside edge of the pupil. This is where the highest point of your brow, or arch should appear. Finally, extend the tip of the brush to the outside corner of the eye. This is where your brow should end. Most people’s brows will fall short of this point. No worries, a little pencil or that Rogaine tip works as a quick or long-term fix.

TWEEZING
Before you start plucking away, brush the brow hairs upward and look to the top of the brow to find your shape. The top of the brow line is naturally defined and will act as your guide for tweezing along the base of the brow. For this reason, it’s best to leave this area alone since removing the “wrong” hair could drastically alter or diminish your natural shape. Conversely, if you do not have a strong natural arch at the top begin with, do not try to create one at the bottom. The goal is get the both brows lines to mirror one another. Attempting to create an arch at the base of the brow, especially too close to the center of your face, can create the look of ‘hook’ brows. Not cute.
To start tweezing, hold the skin taut and pluck the hairs in the direction they grow, removing one row of hair at a time from beginning to end. You ultimately want to create a clean continuous line that gradually thins from start to finish. Be sure to step back from your mirror to check your brows periodically for symmetry. Once the basic shape is defined, remove any obvious strays that appear between and above the brow line. Now put down the tweezers. Remember: less is more in the brow department. Once you over-pluck, you’re stuck. Besides, a fuller, simple shape is more natural and flattering.

TRIMMING
Next, brush the hairs up and into place. Using your scissors trim the excess length from each brow as carefully as possible. Be ultra-conservative with this step and constantly brush the brows up before you snip since it’s very easy to do a hack-job on oneself. If you’re uncomfortable with this process, have someone else do it for you (someone you trust) since it’s a little awkward to execute on both sides.

RAZORING
This last step is totally optional and a little daunting but really adds to the overall level of precision. It involves the use of a “brow razor” to eliminate any excess hairs that exist above the brow line and are too fine tweeze. This tool can be found at any CVS or Rite Aid in the cosmetic aisle (usually near false lashes and cotton pads). To use: hold the razor almost parallel to the skin above the brow where there is excess hair. Applying light pressure and a downward motion, gently razor the hairs until you hit the top of the brow. The brow line will stop you. Do not shave into or over this line! Next, use the razor to “clean up” the area between the brows and, if you’re feeling really daring, above the upper lip as an alternative to waxing.

FILLING IN
Nobody has naturally perfect brows. Whether you were born with sparse brows that need a fix or have full ones that you want to take to the “editorial” level, there is a way to naturally fill them in. All it takes is a pencil, a groomer and some clear brow gel.
You’ll want to select a pencil that contains some wax and is a shade slightly lighter than you natural brow hair. Do not use an eyeliner since they contain too much pigment and will appear too obvious. Furthermore, liners won’t adhere as well to the skin. Ideally, try to find a brow pencil with a brush on the other end, otherwise use your separate groomer for blending.

Starting at the base of the brow, use the pencil to fill in any sparse areas with short, feathery strokes. Apply in the direction of hair growth. The key here is not to create a definite line, but to create the appearance of hair. Brush through the hairs every so often to soften and blend the pigment throughout the brow. If your arch tends to “collapse” at the top outer edge of the brow, use the pencil to fill in that area as well. This will create a “lifting” effect. Be sure to blend. You do not want to see any obvious lines, just shadows. This is can be a frustrating process and does require some practice. Do not give up. You’ll get it. When all else fails, blend. Your groomer can act as an eraser for any “mistakes”.

Lastly, use a clear mascara or brow gel to comb through the hairs and keep them in place.

Well done ☺

written by:
Jennifer Opeka
Lead Make-up Artist
Sarra – Boston, MA

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